1721 Sunday Gun Day... When life gives you lemons, you better get your ass a 3D printer. (media.patriots.win) posted 291 days ago by kcexoticsdotnet 291 days ago by kcexoticsdotnet +1725 / -4 152 comments download share 152 comments share download save hide report block hide replies
FYI - for anyone interested ... this is probably one of the best resources for your 3D Printing adventures 😎 https://ctrlpew.com/
Happy Sunday Gunday!!
What filament are you using? Everytime I print something it seems weak and flimsy
Buying some now
I print with PLA+. The folks in AWCY? and Weight Forward recommend avoiding PETG.
PLA is stiffer than PETG and ABS, but it's also relatively brittle, and it has a low glass transition temperature. PLA parts will warp just from sitting in a car in the day time. Maybe the plus additives improve things a bit. PLA is really easy to heat treat, and the salt packing method can double the strength of a print, as well as increase the temperature resistance a bit.
PETG can give you very good layer adhesion without heat treating, and has a higher glass transition temperature while still being relatively easy to print. You don't need an enclosure, for example. ABS is perhaps the best non-engineering plastic for functional prints, but it's also fickle to print because it has a lot of thermal expansion.
With a specialized printer optimized for higher temperatures, something like nylon or polycarbonate would probably be ideal.
Really the best option is to use the printed part to make a silicone mold so you can cast the part in resin. Much stronger and more durable, but double the effort and time. And you can then cast as many as you want because you have the mold
The guy I watch on YT for printing guns uses polymaker PLA pro, he does pushups on his guns with the grip in the dirt and he doest have problems. Print Shoot Repeat if you havent heard of him check it out.
Sure, PLA is a great material. I've been making high torque gear boxes with it. At 60 degrees, though, it softens and permanently warps. Just look at the glass transition temperature. https://us.polymaker.com/products/polymax-pla
That's not very hot. While it certainly works for a demo or a prototype and is better than nothing, it won't hold up in a car truck on a warm day, too close to a heat register on a cold day, etc.
Is your machine tuned for petg?
You should have an enclosure or draft shields are usually required.
Larger format printers are better for petg, nylon and abs.
do these things work? are they safe? the gun won't blow up in my hand?
Yes they're safe, no they won't blow up.
You'll be able to tell once you pick up the frame if it's a good print or not.
You can salt bake them to make them way stronger but you have to tune the print size to accommodate the shrinkage and growth. X and Y shrink while the Z will grow when salt baked.
I've never had to salt bake anything but I also spend a insane amount of time tuning them. Which is why I get booty tickled when I have to move them for a sesh or something.
Stefan over at CNC Kitchen does strength tests and such all the time. This is not a 1:1 comparison, but it is enlightening. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ycGDR752fT0
There is a video of strengthening your print by heating it in the oven, melts the design together.
I print at 240c and 80c bed.
I'm doing one now at 240c and a 86 bed
You're doing it wrong. 100% infill, 60° tilt, tree supports. 0.15 lines 0.8 nozzle
If just using normal PLA or TPU get CHT nozzle from bondtech.
If you're using anything else I suggest diamond or tungsten carbide.
I suggest carbon fiber pla.
These comments tend to get deleted for aome reason.
100% infill? Your prints must take days! And I've never managed to get tree supports working well. Maybe it's my printer. What are you using?
My prints take weeks sometimes.
Usually when they fail it's something stupid I did. Like for example I didn't secure the filament dry box lid and the end of the filament pulled it onto the print bed. I made a special shelf but moved the printer and was to lazy to move the shelf which cost me a few days printing.
Tree supports doesn't work if you're bed moves in X or Y. Mine move Z only.
I have TronXY 600x2 and TronXY 500 pro and Anycubic predator large format delta.
The TronXY 600 seem to be pretty easy to use, build and fix.
The nozzle is probably the most important thing, I love the CHT nozzle from bondtech for running plain PLA.
Thanks. That explains everything very nicely. I've never printed anything longer than 24 hours on my printer, because the longer the print, the higher my failure rate seems to go. But my printer bed moves in both x and y axis, so there you go.
I'll give it a go. Using some petg right now. Testing a Beretta tomcat
Carbon fiber seems to be one of the go-to's but I can't wait to try the wood filament.
I'm using tons of sunlu wood filament. There's other brands that are a little bit better quality but they're more expensive unless you ise a 2.85mm filament.
I have an SLA printer right now but that tech isn't suitable for 2a stuff. Going to buy an FDM printer as soon as I finish my gst-9 80% builds.
Carbon fiber pla has very marginal strength gains over regular pla, dont get fooled.
I've used a lot of duramic and overture (probably same product different name)
I have one of my printers set up for ABS. Bed is 110 degC and head is 220 degC. Works well but you have to upgrade your machine to better components.
The Ender printers are good but they will leave you wanting something bigger usually.
I don't recommend a printer that moves the bed any direction besides up and down.
I suggest you get one with rails.
Twotrees sp5 400 to 500$ 300mm cube these can be a pain to tune but have great detail if done by someone who is careful and pays attention to detail.
Tronxy 600 1000 to 1300$ 600mm cube will run carbon fiber pla immediately if you buy a hardened nozzle, steel, stainless, tungsten carbide, or diamond. Only upgrade needed is a MOSFET for the bed really.
I have Swiss Micro head on my CR10. These heads are a direct replacement and about $80 US.
CHT nozzle on a j head shits on your swiss micro. Literally half the price and will compete with a volcano. And for carbon fiber swiss gets torn up.
Excuse me sir, did Dewalt license those colors?
Or Ryobi looks like
WhaTs the lifespan on them?
Go watch print shoot repeat on YouTube. Dude printed an mp5 and it was pretty amazing
Do the HK SLAP!
Jas,, und do tha HK schlap
Depends, a lot of them are as reliable as injection molded & machined versions as long as you're not chucking them at hard surfaces or trying to break them. You're usually only printing a receiver and mounting everything else. I've got a Glock 19 that's held up for over 1K rounds without a hiccup.
Only problem is % of failure when it matters
Better buy material now. With oil prices continually increasing plastic will be getting more expensive.
This ^^ I worked in the plastics industry in the mid to late 1970's and it almost put our company out of business. We also had gas rationing, food shortages, Global Cooling, and the 'Swine Flu' that was going to kill us all.
I've been hoping TPTB would mix it up a little and do aliens this time. They're giving teasers like the recent UAP Congressional hearing so maybe they will...
Did you work for Exxon Chemicals?
No it was a small rotational molding and injection molding company. We made plastic trash cans (like you put at the curb) and other items. We had just come up with a design for a small rotational molded sail boat, but that got canceled.
Most 3D printer filaments are made of plant-based material and not on oil at all. PLA, ABS, PETG are all made out of corn. The wizards of smart do some funky chemistry and BANG ZOOM you have filament beads. Those beads are then melted down and extruded into filament.
Aside from that, you're pretty correct in the price of oil driving things up. Many of the filament makers seem to be out of China these days and that shipment cost is gonna rise.
Same, a decent closed loop VMC with 18 tools on a changer and operating with a VFD. Also have a ram EDM and an injection mold machine that takes 5x8 pretty easily and I've got 36" of daylight with standard MUDs. Got two CNC lathes too, one of them swiss style.
STILL, additive manufacturing is cool as hell and I've been finding more and more ways to use 3d printers, especially for jigs and fixtures. Have been toying with annealing the prints, best results are with popcorn salt in an electric oven. I've not been impressed with the chop filled filaments though, makes for weaker layer adhesion. And printing with nylon has been fun, that stuff can be tougher than gorilla pussy.
The libtards will have to ban the Periodic Table of the Elements.
KEK! No doubt about it pede. I've got a forge too, and a vacuformer. Hell, you've probably seen/heard about the kind of damage a liberated flywheel can do right? Man, what an experience that was. Man, that flywheel just kept on going after it exited the shop through the wall. Came off a big ass shear while we were standing around waiting on some 1/4" stainless. That and the co2 bottle knocked loose by a feral forklift operator at a brewery, holy shit - ZING!
Man I have no idea what you guys are talking about, but it sounds badass.
Lucky the block stopped it, there was a muthbusters on the same thing and the tank punched right through the cinderblock wall
Elements can transition through fusion you bigot!!!!!!!!!!!!!
/wojack furious meme/
Check out UV cured resin printers. I have tapped holes in that stuff an it's not bad.
Been looking at that newer prusa one, just to have the software/ecosystem support. Had a form2 4 years ago, it was pretty good. The tech has really come down in price and those UV projection ones that do an entire layer at a time have gotten really good from what I can tell.
I have never designed/programmed/set up or run a 3d printer however I have have done secondary operations on extruded pla, abs an sls printed nylon an a couple different types of UV resins an 3d printed bronze/stainless steel composite. By far the UV resin prints are the most accurate an easiest to work with but it's not a replacement for machining it's a good process for making 1s an 2s of parts that don't need a lot of strength. The bronze/stainless composite is very strong but can be somewhat porous an has a tendency to not be straight/square and warped also it has a sand like "skin" that dulls tools.
Thanks for the info pede. Didn't know they had steel/bronze impregnated resin - I'm sure that would have all sorts of inconsistency issues. I've worked with sintered metal 3d prints before and those have a ton of issues with small features and larger flat surfaces warping.
The bronze/stainless is sort of a sintered type material, I was told it is printed with powdered stainless steel an then put into a vacuum sintering furnace an packed in sand with a ingot of bronze in a channel that feeds to that part, and the adhesive is cooked off and then the heat is turned up an the bronze melts an flows into the porous stainless sponge.
lol, holy shit! That's some effort put into that part man. I get it though if the geometries are complex enough.
There's a mold function in cura. I suggest you use it for when you need to do batches. Just make an injection mold.
If I were interested in molding parts I would use smooth on products they have a whole set of products specifically intended to duplicate parts. However you have to understand what can and cannot be done with molding. Smooth on even has rubber mold resins that will allow you to mold parts with "undercut"
Those are pretty spendy
reason number 7 I dont buy a 3D printer....I'd be too tempted to make 3-hole lowers...
Oh you mean a choosy express? It exists already. Anybody who wants to do can very easily. Suppressors are quite easy as well. 22lr very easy and very effective. 9mm can be too. We’re getting better at it. There’s already a couple of useable models. 5.56 isn’t there yet but who knows, it could be soon.
A seething ATF faggot downvoted you
They’re going to figure out that they cannot control us. Gun control is dead.
I will say though - anyone who thinks you can just go buy an ender 3 and a spool of filament and print <anything> is ignorant.
You gotta make a lotta spaghetti before you get the process down.
I haven’t tried to print any lowers yet - but I’m assuming we are talking 80%+ infill and 100+ hour print times. Then, assuming you get a good print, the post processing work is probably very tedious as well.
As the technology continues to improve though, I’m sure these types of problems will be mitigated somewhat.
Yeah, I agree. While I’m sure there’s some whiz kids out there, my experience in 3d Printing was everything you described. A lot of Spaghetti, a lot of figuring out what each setting meant in Cura, and a lot of trial and error. And even though I’ve got a lot of it down, I’ll still have failed prints. It’s a constant learning process. Even putting together an ender 3 isn’t the easiest thing in the world, I remember. Then there’s troubleshooting. Nozzles getting clogged. Capricorn tube clogged. Heat creep. Bed leveling. Trying to get the temperature right when you’re using a new brand of filament. It’s a lot of time. And definitely an art.
100 percent infill on Lowers. I just did a frame for a Mac 11 called the Scarab. It’s close to a 100 hour print. And my first two failed. They just didn’t come out like I wanted them to. The reason that happened is I calculated and measured the E steps and realized it had gotten way off. I think new filament and I went to an all metal hot end. So I changed the value. Then I turned the machine off and started the print the next day. It came out terrible. Not what I’m used to. Went back to Cura, did a few new things and tried again. Terrible. Went back and looked at my E steps and I forgot to save so it reverted back to the original value. Felt like an idiot. I wasted a ton of time and filament before figuring out I had failed to do something very simple.
The struggle is real
Gun control is only partly about guns, mostly it’s about the desire to control, and that will never die.
It never dies. You’re correct. The best we can do is reset it like the founding fathers did. And then reapply roadblocks where it makes it extremely difficult for the despots a couple few hundred years later.
Oh man, yeah I’d like to have one of those. You’re right they can do amazing stuff with additive manufacturing that wasn’t possible before. Not that long ago, the ATF shut down form 1 suppressors like hardcore. Put a whole cottage industry out of business. People selling different parts to make home built suppressors. Kind of like 80 percent receivers. The best one was this dude who popped up and he had use of some extravagant 3d printer That could do all kinds of metal. Even stellite. He sold all kinds of cool shit like these 3d printed blast diffusers. They’re awesome. But he also did a limited run of what was basically an entire suppressor. Man, I wish I got one.
What do you mean 556 isn't there yet? I've seen frames for bigger than that. I've not looked at suppression since that's super easy to design yourself.
556 suppressor. Specifically of the 3d printed variety. Apologies, that may not have been quite clear.
The I would suggest a twisted suppressor.
You have to design it yourself. The suppression happens through turbulence. Not sure if it's a good idea to describe it here.
Use carbon fiber pla for body and tpu with pla support for dampener.
Oh dude, sweet. Yeah, I understand. This is enough to help me out though. Maybe can do a little research and take it from here. It’s a code I have not been able to crack thus far.
Yeah, and making 5.56 subsonic makes it a lot less effective. A suppressor will still take quite a bit of decibels off though. You still need hearing protection but it takes the edge off.
With a long enough barrel, you can use a .22 without a suppressor and it will be dead quiet with subsonic ammo. I've heard good things about suppressing .45s since the round is naturally subsonic.
I can't imagine a 5.56 would ever really be practical without straying from the point of shooting a 5.56.
556 will always be loud because it’s traveling at supersonic speeds. No suppressor can take that away. A suppressor will take the bite out of it though. So for me, it makes it a lot more pleasant to shoot so long as I got ear protection on.
Have you seen the latest MP5 design? I absolutely must make one after seeing print shoot repeat demo it - looks super fun!
Your rifle deserves better than that airsoft grade optic.
They will ban 3d printers soon, I guess.
Ryobi is making so many different types of tools lately
You only print the receiver, mags, accessories. Everything else is metal.
They're all metal. Only the lower receiver is serialized, and they're typically fine to print. And that's a .22LR so far less operating pressures and velocities.
ProTip: this government doesn’t give a FUCK about the Constitution. They said it out loud. “Your rights aren’t absolute.”
When we needed an impalement most, Vlad let us down
Stop making me hard like this.
Because as of right now it is still legal to manufacture your own weapons. And since the lower receiver is the only part that counts as a serialized weapon you can still technically manufacture your own firearm by making that part and purchasing the rest.
I didn't learn this until 4 years ago - it's been a wild ride ever since, lol!
Lmao you really following that law? Fuck outta here
Except on some guns. 3:00 mark https://odysee.com/@printshootrepeat:5/3d-printed-scorpion-evo-carbine:b
They’ll soon require background checks for 3d printers.
Then we'll go back to making our own. The ender is basically a homebrew printer called reprap turned into a commercial product
How long did the lowers on the rifle and pistol take to print?
Most prints around that size, with 100% fill, will be 16-30 hrs depending on settings
Two of those identify as Dewalt drills
Ok so dumb this down for me. Say I want to 3D print a lower. What do I need? ELI5.
I used to see the Replicator on the original StarTrek, some of the other things were plausible like communicators(cell phones 30 years later). 3D printing is getting damn close to a Replicator. When can we replicate food?
From the article:
So bugs. I knew it!
Thanks elcomedian, that is actually pretty cool. I learn new stuff everyday.
Hard to dox yourself with serial numbers when you don't have one. 🧏♂️
I bet someone uses DeWalt power tools.
If we can somehow manufacture our own brass, primers, and powder we would be unstoppable. We as a community need to breakup the Government’s monopoly on violence. Without ammunition rifles make poor clubs.
For those who have printed and actually shot from their guns.... I've got questions since my experience with 3D printing is only on a lower end printer and cheaper ABS filament... wouldn't have trusted those prints for anything due to how often the prints broke between layers (shitty printer)
I'm not in the market for a new printer just yet but would be nice to have something like what OP printed...
Stop using ABS. Get PLA+ its what everyone in the gun printing community will recommend 99% of the time. Any printer that can heat and melt the plastic roughly where it belongs, is capable of this, you dont need to spend a lot. You need to get good at your slicer settings and tuning the machine, thats it
I gave my printer away ~ 4 yrs ago. I expected there would be new stuff. Will prob pick up at some point.
Do you have a link to the carry handle sight?
I am sad that I cannot join Sunday gunday as I only have airsoft replicas (like doing skirmishes and last time I checked real guns are a bit frowned upon when you bring them to airsoft skirmishes). Also Dutch government only allows a small selection of firearms (no scary black rifles for the Dutch)
What printer would you recommend?