The 90% + alcohols available on the market evaporate too quickly to be as good of a disinfectant. The best commonly available is the 70% isopropyl alcohol which stays on the surface long enough to interact with bacteria and viruses (it is what is used in commercial labs as the surface disinfectant, brand is septihol).
If all you can get is 90%+ simply dilute down to 70% with distilled water you would normally use for your iron.
the dilution math is as follows:
[initial concentration] * initial volume = [final concentration] * final volume
target is 32 oz of 70% and we are using 90% as our starting material example; 0.7*32= 0.90 * (x) = 70%final / 90% initial * 32 oz final = 24.8oz of 90% isopropyl to which you add 7.2 oz of water to get 32 oz final volume.
The 90% + alcohols available on the market evaporate too quickly to be as good of a disinfectant. The best commonly available is the 70% isopropyl alcohol which stays on the surface long enough to interact with bacteria and viruses (it is what is used in commercial labs as the surface disinfectant, brand is septihol).
If all you can get is 90%+ simply dilute down to 70% with distilled water you would normally use for your iron.
the dilution math is as follows:
[initial concentration] * initial volume = [final concentration] * final volume
target is 32 oz of 70% and we are using 90% as our starting material example; 0.7*32= 0.90 * (x) = 70%final / 90% initial * 32 oz final = 24.8oz of 90% isopropyl to which you add 7.2 oz of water to get 32 oz final volume.
90%+ is useful for destroying adhesives and cleaning PC components, please leave it for us nerds. :D
70%+ is the medical stuff like you're saying. Can work for adhesive removal too, but slightly worse than 90%+.
I use an auto degreaser called super clean
Fun fact, starting fluid is an amazing instant degreaser. You just gotta work fast and be careful you don't explode.
Only if you havent tried 99%!
90% will get you the drunkest, too
90% doesn't destroy plastic like the longer chain solvents (kerosene)
Math is hard
bring back old-lady math
3.5 parts high test to one part water
FTFY
but since there are other concentrations available, i included the math so all one needs to do is plug and play.
Peroxide is a bleaching agent, doesn't evaporate readily as well.
Soap also works to remove the offending bacteria and virus. Just toss the rag in the wash when you are done, don't hang to reuse.
I actually wash with a soapy rag, disinfect with septihol after.
Pelosi already runs at 150 proof
30 seconds in 70% kills 99%.
In addition, the higher water content of 70% vs 90%+ lets it penetrate bacteria better. 90%+ is only effective for viruses, 70% is good for both.
https://sports.yahoo.com/why-70-isopropyl-alcohol-better-195925226.html?src=rss
Thanks, this is all good to know.
In the defense contractor biz we used a lot of 195 proof ethanol (basically as pure as it gets because it's so hydrophylic) for cleaning certain electronic assemblies. It came with a nasty trace flavorant additive so you wouldn't drink it. Stuff worked great at removing fingerprints and adhesives from electrical contacts and circuit traces and components. It was non-toxic to humans, unlike stuff like methanol or other organic solvents.
All alcohols are toxic, which is why too much vodka can kill you. Ethanol is merely less toxic than much of the chemical class we call alcohols.
Well no shit Sherlock. But ethanol is non-toxic in any amount of reasonable skin contact or fumes inhaled in the process of cleaning electronic parts either in an automated process or by hand using an artist's brush. Unlike xylene, toluene, methanol, etc.
Doesn't 90% becomes 70% anyway because alcohol absorbs humidity?
No, the concentration that does that is above 95. It just evaporates (quickly)
Regular soap also kills the virus in 20 seconds. The virus is surrounded by a lipid layer that the soap binds to and destroys
I have gallons of the medical type if you will and that's 80%. I use it as a spray or on hands, should I be diluting it?