952
() 🐂 Bullshit 💩
posted ago by Crypulous ago by Crypulous +952 / -0
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JohnWickParabellum 7 points ago +7 / -0

This, exactly this. Give me Hawaii or the South Pacific over dirty and freezing, soy infested California any day.

The other thing about surfing is you need to start at a very young age... when you are a grommet you learn everything, building layers of skill year after year that allow you as an adult to do what you see on television and movies.

Adults don't take to surfing like other sports. The learning curve is monumental.